Asst. Prof. Supreeya Suthamtarikul
Abstract :
The Buddhist concept of *kilesa* (mental defilements) and Japanese aesthetics (*Bi* *So* *Ki*etc.) are studied, analyzed and synthesized these insights to create conceptual fashion design. Japanese aesthetic concepts are utilized as design principles. The fashion language employed aims to convey experiences related to *kilesa*—encompassing mental turbidity as well as states of satisfaction, dissatisfaction, and neutrality which dominated human being- across three age groups: 1. Childhood: represented by a short dress with the elongated tubular form of headdress, symbolizing *kilesa* influencing the mind and thoughts; 2. Adulthood: represented by a long evening gown with tubular shapes embedded deep within the garment, symbolizing *kilesa* that has taken deep root and is difficult to cast off; and 3. Old Age: represented by a loose-fitting dress enveloped by *kilesa* forms, symbolizing the mental defilements that cling to the mind despite attempts to let go. The resulting works will be served as case studies for disseminating knowledge to interested individuals.
Objectives :
- To study, research, compile, and analyze Japanese aesthetic concepts for application as design principles.
- To study, research, and analyze Buddhist principles regarding “Kilesa” (mental defilements) to serve as a foundation for storytelling.
- To synthesize information and utilize symbolism to convey meaning.
- To create conceptual fashion designs based on the theme of “Kilesa.”
Conceptual Framework :
“Dominated”
This trio of conceptual fashion designs integrates the Buddhist concept of *kilesa* (mental defilements)—and the methods for overcoming them—with design principles influenced by Japanese aesthetics. Through using of symbolic forms, structures, color and material, the collection conveys the narratives of greed (*lobha*), anger (*dosa*), and delusion (*moha*)—states corresponding to satisfaction, dissatisfaction, and neutrality—that dominate the human mind.
Process / Methodology :
This research employs Japanese aesthetic concepts as the core principles of the design process. It begins with symbolism expressed through structure, form, materials, and an all-white color palette to signify new beginnings and allow the viewer’s imagination to roam freely. Tulle is utilized to convey delicacy, fragility, and profound, multi-dimensional emotions, reflecting the concept of *Bi* (subtle/deep sensitivity). The design emphasizes simplicity by stripping away superfluous ornamentation, focusing instead on raw, natural beauty and a serene life force—or *So* (simplicity/purity)—as well as the energy, spirit, and atmosphere of the surrounding environment, known as *Ki* (life force/spirit). The silhouettes reflect harmonious coexistence—*Hei* (peace/harmony) Furthermore, the designs convey the concepts of transformation (*Ha*) and the hidden or mysterious (*Hi*) to capture the unique allure of Japanese aesthetics. These design principles are applied to three garment sets representing different stages of human life—youth, adulthood, and old age—as appeared in the abstract above.
Techniques and Materials :
Three outfits reflect the different stages of human life—youth, adulthood, and old age—through distinct structural forms: an elongated cylinder for the youth ensemble, a circular cylinder integrated into the adult garment, and an elliptical shape enveloping the body for the elderly stage. Hoop-based structural techniques were employed to create these cylindrical forms across all three outfits. Additionally, tulle fabric was selected to convey qualities of grace and fragility, as well as profound, multi-dimensional emotions.
Result / Conclusion :
Conclusions process: The conceptual fashion design process regarding the theme of “Defilements: Domination” involved the following:
- The use of representation and symbolism to convey the narrative as well as form, shape and materials.
- A study of *kilesa* (defilements)—summarizing concepts from Buddhist teachings regarding their nature as mental impurities, specifically greed, hatred, and delusion.
- Interpretation of the content, distilled into the core concept of “Domination.”
- Categorization of humans into three groups—children, adults, and the elderly—represented by specific garment styles: short dress, evening gowns, and loose-fitting dresses. Tube-like structures symbolizing defilements were incorporated into the designs to visualize the concept of domination.
- Application of Japanese aesthetic concepts for design principles regarding the color white—specifically the nuances of *bi*, *ki*, *so*, *ha*, *hi*, and *hei*—as well as the interplay of white tones and light and shadow.
Results: Japanese aesthetics served as the guiding design principle. This involved interpreting and utilizing materials, forms, and symbols to embody these principles and convey a narrative that the audience could understand. Furthermore, a discussion with a critic may also be necessary.
References :
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